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BMW 750i Reliability: The Most Expensive Luxury Sedan to Maintain?

Sun Feb 15 2026
Reliability Score: 38 /100

Common Failure Points & Costs

Component Failure Mileage Symptom Est. Cost (USD) Risk Level
Rear Air Springs 60k - 80k miles Car sags overnight, 'Chassis Malfunction' $1,200 - $2,500 High
Valve Stem Seals 60k - 90k miles (F01) Clouds of blue smoke, high oil consumption $5,000 - $9,000 Critical
Battery Registration/Drain Every 12-18 Months (OG N63) Dead battery, electrical gremlins $400 - $600 High
Active Sway Bar (ARS) 80k - 100k miles Leaking hydraulic fluid, clunking $2,000 - $3,500 Medium
Fuel Injectors (Piezo) 40k - 80k miles Misfire, rich smell, hydrolock risk $2,500 (Set of 8) Critical
Transmission Pan Leak 60k - 80k miles Oil spots, slipping gears $600 - $900 Medium

Reliability Verdict

The F01 750i (2009-2015) is widely considered a financial trap due to the OG N63 engine and complex electronics. The G11 (2016+) is vastly superior but still carries heavy depreciation and maintenance costs.

BMW 750i Reliability: The Flagship that Sinks Wallets

The BMW 750i is the pinnacle of the “Ultimate Driving Machine.” It offers a twin-turbo V8, massage seats, and an autobahn-crushing ride.

But on the used market, it is dangerously cheap. You can buy a $100,000 F01 750i for $8,000. Why? Because the N63 engine inside it can cost more than the car’s value to fix.

This guide explores the specific hellscape of owning an out-of-warranty V8 7-Series.


1. The Engine Issues (N63)

The 750i uses the same N63 Hot-Vee engine as the 550i and X5 50i. Refer to our N63 Engine Pillar Page for the deep dive.

Why the 750i is Worse than the 550i

The 7-Series has more stuff to break.

  • Battery Drain: The 750i has more modules, more fans, more lights. The N63’s cooling fans run after shutdown. This kills batteries rapidly.
  • Heat Soak: The engine bay is packed tighter. The heat from the Hot-Vee has nowhere to go, baking the plastic firewall covers and wiring harnesses.

2. 7-Series Specific Failures

Beyond the engine, the F01/G11 chassis has its own gremlins.

A. Air Suspension Collapse

The rear air springs (and front struts on some models) fail.

  • Symptom: You walk out in the morning and the car looks “slammed” on one corner.
  • Risk: Burn out the air compressor ($1,000) if you drive it.
  • Cost: Arnott aftermarket struts are $500/corner. OEM is $1,500/corner.

B. Soft Close Doors

The motors that suck the doors shut fail.

  • Symptom: The door won’t latch or makes a grinding noise.
  • Cost: $600 per door.

C. Active Roll Stabilization (ARS)

The hydraulic sway bars leak.

  • Symptom: Red fluid on the ground.
  • Fix: The entire sway bar assembly must be replaced. It is complex.
  • Cost: $2,500+.

3. The “Bargain” Trap

Scenario: You see a 2011 BMW 750i with 90k miles for $9,500. It looks clean. Reality: It likely needs:

  1. Valve Stem Seals ($6,000)
  2. Upper Control Arms ($800)
  3. New Battery ($500)
  4. Rear Tires ($600)

Total Immediate Cost: $7,900. You have effectively doubled the price of the car in the first month.


4. Verdict: G11 or Bust

If you want a V8 7-Series, you have two safe options:

  1. Lease a new one.
  2. Buy a 2017+ G11 750i. The N63TU2 engine is reliable, the chassis is lighter (Carbon Core), and the electronics are more stable.

Related Guides:

Expert Buying Advice

Avoid early F01s (2009-2012). If you buy an F01, ensure the Valve Stem Seals and Injectors have been done. The G11 750i (2016+) is the smart buy, but get a warranty.